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ULP: The Ultimate Liquidity Portfolio

Here’s a little pause from options trading with a closer look into savings. In November I listened to Episode 67 of the Millennial Investing Podcast: “Why and How You Should Invest Your Emergency Fund with Chris Kawaja.” The episode really resonated with me. So much so that I immediately ordered Chris’s book How to Stash That Cash: The Ultimate Liquidity Portfolio on paperback from Amazon.

High Yield Savings Accounts Lose Money

My sad money market YTD returns

A couple days later, the book arrived and I literally read it in one afternoon. It’s short at just 98 pages. Chris gets straight to the point and clearly lays out the reasons why his “Ultimate Liquidity Portfolio” is better than stashing emergency (or opportunity) funds into “high-yield” savings accounts as I had been doing. Currently, I’m earning 0.4% APY on my high yield account. When you account for the Fed’s current target inflation rate at 2%, it is obvious that you are losing money everyday it sits in your account. The book has several charts and graphs showing just how much buying power cash has lost in the past. But there is obviously some value to knowing that the money is safely set aside and liquid for whenever it is needed.

Other Assets & Volatility

So how do you keep up with inflation? The typical answer is to buy assets. Gold, stocks, real estate… most assets will rise in value with inflation, though generally with volatility as well. The downsides to putting all of your emergency funds into any one of those assets are obvious. When you need to pull $1,000 out, for example, you want to know your asset is still worth $1,000 (not less) and it can be easily liquidated. It’s clear you aren’t going to be able to sell off a little bit of real estate every time you are in a crunch.

Also consider the reason you need access to these funds. Perhaps we are in a bear market (e.g. because of a pandemic!) and you just lost your job. If you had your “emergency” funds in the stock market, you’d be forced to sell at the same time as everyone else, losing a good chunk of your value just when you need it. This is why FDIC insured accounts like high yield savings accounts are so popular despite such low rates of return.

Diversification: The Perfect Mix

Chris has a great metaphor in his book for a perfectly diversified portfolio. Imagine you are a farmer with hens. There are two types of hens: ones that lay eggs on sunny days and those that lay eggs when it’s not sunny. If you have both types of hens, you know that you will get eggs whether it is sunny or not. This is what you want in an emergency fund, one that continues to grow in both booms and busts.

So how is this achieved in practice? With a mixture of bonds and stocks. But this isn’t your typical 60-40 stock to bond ratio. Such a portfolio is likely to grow over the longterm, but will still have more volatility than you want. Remember, you want eggs on cloudy days, too.

Chris’s solution is a mix of 88% intermediate term US Treasures and 12% US total stock market. Intermediate term treasuries mature in approximately 5-10 years. The two generally move in opposite directions, especially when there are big moves in the market. For example, see the chart below showing $VGIT vs. the S&P 500 this year. Just when the market was crashing in March, $VGIT started laying eggs!

$VGIT vs. S&P 500 over the last year

Since 2009 when $VGIT was formed, it has had a -0.43 correlation to the US stock market. The 88/12% combo of $VGIT and $VTI have a combined correlation to the US stock market of just 0.11. When the stock market is zigging and zagging, the ULP is just steady.

If you put $10,000 into $VTI in that time, you’d have $41,923 (13.9% CAGR), but with a max drawdown of over -20% and worst year of -5%. $10,000 in $VGIT gives you $14,381 (3.36% CAGR) with a max drawdown of -4.3% and worst year of -2.8%. The ULP slightly increases the return of the 100% bond portfolio and actually reduces drawdowns. $10,000 in the 88/12 ULP gives you $16,568 (4.7% CAGR) with a max drawdown of just -3% and worst year -2.2%. This is with an annual rebalancing. Remember that this is only looking at a short time frame in which there was a historic bull market — in other time periods, as the book shows, the ULP returns compare even more favorably with the stock market returns.

ULP vs. S&P 500 over the past 10+ years

Tax Advantage

One final benefit of the ULP over savings accounts is the tax advantages. Tax implications should never be the primary driver for an investment choice, but a secondary benefit is always welcome. Interest income from the savings account will be taxed as ordinary income. Dividends from the $VTI portion are qualified, so therefore will be taxed as more favorable longterm capital gains, which is 15% for most (including myself) at the federal level. In addition, for those of us in higher taxed states, the dividends from US Treasuries aren’t taxed at all at the state and local level.

Implementing the ULP

Interested in implementing the ULP for yourself? First, I suggest you get a copy of the book first before throwing your life’s savings in it. Chris is much more qualified to give financial advice than I ever will be.

With that said, the easiest way to achieve this is with M1 Finance. M1 Finance allows you to create your portfolio with multiple “pies” where you split your portfolio among different slices. Each slice is a unique ETF or stock. In this case, the ULP pie is 88% $VGIT and 12% VTI. You can view this pie on M1 Finance here.

One question I’ve been wrestling with is how much to put in the ULP vs our savings accounts. Chris’s book devotes a chapter to determine how much should be in an emergency fund. He discusses unexpected costs (home repairs, healthcare expenses, auto repairs, etc.) as well as loss of income. You often hear of 6-12 months of expenses should be saved in the emergency funds. Because my wife and I both work, I actually did a calculation of how much we need to cover 6 months of our expenses living on only one of our incomes (the smaller of the two incomes). That is the goal to reach in my ULP account.

Our unexpected costs — which includes $3,000 for an expensive car repair (e.g. transmission) + 1% home value + $3,000 for a home repair (e.g. A/C repair) and the difference between our maximum out of pocket healthcare expenses and our HSA balance — are what we plan to keep in our savings account going forward. I’m not going to go over the exact numbers here (I’m realizing this is getting quite complicated and might deserve its own future post), but will say that the target values for the ULP and savings account come out to be fairly similar amounts.

Conclusion

After reading Chris’s book, I am convinced that investing some of my emergency fund into the ULP will better preserve, and potentially grow, the value of those funds compared to a high-yield savings account. I have started to implement the ULP at M1 Finance, which makes it easy to achieve the desired allocation between $VTI and $VGIT.

Chris has a blog with some interesting personal finance posts as well as some health related posts (that I haven’t really read) at upwarding.com. I commented on one of his posts and he replied via email. I was very impressed with the time and thoughtfulness he put in his correspondences with just some random reader.

Disclaimer: I am long $VTI and $VGIT. I am not a financial advisor. This is not investment advice. Please do your own research before investing in anything discussed herein. This post contains affiliate links.

Author Wealthy from OptionsPosted on December 18, 2020December 19, 2020Categories Personal FinanceTags Emergency Fund, M1 Finance, savings account, ULP, VGIT, VTI2 Comments on ULP: The Ultimate Liquidity Portfolio

Using Options to Payoff My Mortgage Early: Introduction

This year my wife and I took advantage of the record-low interest rates to refinance our personal residence, as seemingly every other household in America has done. We purchased our home just one year ago with what we thought at the time was a solid interest rate of 3.75%. This month, we were able to refinance down to 3.125%, saving us about $200 per month. With property tax and insurance adjustments, our actual monthly Principal/Interest/Taxes/Insurance (PITI) payment reduced by exactly $164.21. Another bonus is that we were able to skip one month of payments since we closed on the new loan in September and October’s payment is not due until November 1 (mortgage is paid “in arrears”). I’ve put my mind to work lately to think about what to do with this extra savings. The number one goal is to not increase our monthly spending by that amount. We are used to making a monthly payment of $3,151.22, so I want to carry on like we are still making that same payment.

The question is what to do with the extra $164.21 to build wealth. There are two simple options that immediately come to mind.

Benchmark #1: Savings Account

First is to put our first month of no payment (call it $3,000) plus $164.21 each month into a high yield savings account or money market. Our money market is currently earning 0.6% APY (I will use “savings account” and “money market” interchangeably throughout the rest of the post). Assuming that interest rate remains the same over the next 30 years (it won’t), that initial $3,000 plus $164.21 monthly contribution would turn into $68,343.93 (compounded monthly). Compounding interest is a hell of a drug! The biggest advantage of this idea is that it is extremely liquid and the principal is guaranteed by FDIC. When the right investment comes along (e.g. real estate rental property!), I will have this amount at my disposal!

One thing to note is that we already save some of our paychecks in this savings account, which currently sits at around ~6 months of our monthly spending after doing some fairly expensive home renovation projects in the past 12 months (new windows and floors… remind me, is your personal residence an asset or liability?). Whether or not we use this strategy, ultimately I would like to see that savings amount closer to 1 year of expenses. We also have no other debt (student loans, car payments, credit cards). If we did, the $3,000 + $164.21 would immediately go towards paying down that debt first and foremost!

Growth of $3,000 with a $164.21 monthly contribution compounding at 0.6% APY

Benchmark #2: Extra Principal

The other simple option is to make an extra principal payment on the loan of $3,000 initially, and then $164.21 each month after that. This would reduce our loan term by more than three and a half years (42 months) and save $37,490 in interest due the extra $54,890 principal payments made. If we then put the $164.21 in the savings account at 0.6% for the remaining 39 months, the sum would be $6,967.99. Adding the extra principal made, interest saved, and the final savings account sum, this strategy comes out to be worth $99,347.99, beating the all-savings option by 45%! The obvious downside here is we don’t have (easy) access to that extra $54,890 we put into equity. We could get a home equity line of credit (HELOC) to access that equity, but if my property value goes down, it’s possible I won’t be able to access any of that equity due to loan-to-value limits (we are currently sitting at about 70% LTV, for the record).

While I love the idea of reducing our $510,400 loan as it will have an immediate and guaranteed impact on our wealth (wealth = assets – liabilities), I think there is a better option, no pun intended. 😊

If I accept a little bit more risk and work it a little bit more, I think I can get the best of both worlds (liquidity and debt paydown) with options trading. But before I go into option trading, let’s draw one more line in the sand for comparison.

Benchmark #3: Invest in S&P 500

Let’s say I put the initial $3,000 and then $164.21 into the S&P 500 and earn the often reported 8% annual yield? That number comes out to an impressive $277,539.11 after 30 years! There are obviously going to be some large market fluctuations in 30 years, but let’s use that as the ultimate benchmark. For the record, as I write this on October 9, 2020, SPY is trading at $346.21. As I go forward with tracking my progress here, I will benchmark against all three of the previous strategies, comparing returns, debt paydown, and principal.

My Strategy

What I plan to do is actually a bit of a hybrid of the three benchmarks. All the specifics of how I’m investing using options will come in future, ongoing posts, but here is the overall strategy/results I’m hoping to achieve.

On the 1st of each month, we will make a $3,151.22 payment from our checking account to the previously mentioned money market account. Prior to refinancing, this was the exact payment we were making for our PITI. From the money market account, we will transfer $100 of that to our brokerage account in which we will be investing. That account’s starting balance is at $3,000*. We will then pay $2,987.01 on the 1oth of the month to our loan servicer. Why the 10th? Because mortgage is due on the 1st of each month, but not late until the 15th. Money market accounts compound interest daily, so we are getting an extra 10 days of compounding interest. Our money market account will now have $64.21 at the end of the month.

*The account is actually already existing with a balance higher than $3,000, but I have earmarked that $3,000, plus additional payments going forward, for this specific strategy. I plan to keep very detailed records so I can really see what my returns are.

Back to the investing account, a percentage of that portfolio’s investments will then go toward paying down the mortgage, with the remaining balance being used for capital appreciation and income taxes at the end of the year. My goal for the investing account is an aggressive 1% return on the principal each month. Of that 1% return, 68.7% will go toward extra principle on the mortgage. Why 68.7%? Because our marginal federal tax rate is 22% and California state is 9.3% (31.3% total). At the end of the year, that 31.3% should more than cover extra tax liability from this income stream.

So for the first month, my investment account principal is at $3,000 and my goal is to generate $30 (1%). $20.61 goes to mortgage principal (68.7%) and $9.39 (31.3%) is set aside for taxes. On month two, my principal is now $3,100 and my goal is to generate $31, with $21.30 going to mortgage principal and $9.70 going toward taxes. And so on…

Now let’s see where my goal for this strategy compares with the other three. My mortgage will be paid down only 29 months early, with an extra principal of $44,133 made, saving $19,851 in interest. My principal in the investing account will be $39,168.40. Meanwhile, over in the savings account, the $64.21 monthly savings will have accumulated to $25,319.74. The sum total of this strategy is now $128,472. This is 88% better than all savings (Benchmark #1), 29% better than all principal payments (Benchmark #2) and 54% worse than just investing in the S&P500 ETF (Benchmark #3).

Comparing Original Loan with Benchmark #2 and Goal Strategy

When comparing my strategy to the other benchmarks, it’s important to consider the potential returns, risks to the principal, liquidity and how passive the strategy is. Below is a table ranking each strategy, with 1 being the “best”.

StrategyPotential ReturnPrincipal RiskLiquidityPassive
Benchmark #14111
Benchmark #23241
Benchmark #31423
Hybrid2334

Clearly, my hybrid approach is a mixed bag. It is by far the least passive approach, but because of that, there is a potential for increased returns that the others don’t have, and that’s what excites me! One thing to also note is that taxes were not considered in the other three benchmarks. Interest from savings accounts are subject to ordinary income tax, mortgage interest is tax deductible, and stocks are taxed as income or longterm capital gain depending on holding period. For that reason, my hybrid strategy, in which I am accounting for taxes, is a much more realistic return.

Finally, what are the odds that I stay in this home for the next 30 years? What about keeping up with this strategy? Or writing this blog! Of course none of it will likely be going in 30 years, but I will keep this up to date and going for as long as I can/am able/am willing to!

Read my next post on my options trading investing strategy.

Author Wealthy from OptionsPosted on October 9, 2020October 15, 2020Categories Mortgage PayoffTags debt, HELOC, investing, money market, mortgage, options, refinance, savings account, SPY10 Comments on Using Options to Payoff My Mortgage Early: Introduction

Mortgage Payoff Strategy

Interest Saved = $692.91
Months Reduced = 0
Total return = $1,149.43
Total CAGR = 26.9%

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